Natural skin care has been having a moment as consumers venture away from synthetic, processed and potentially harmful chemicals in commonplace products. From serums to masks, clean beauty is supposed to be safer for your face, body and the planet — but is it? Just because such skin care uses raw, Earth-derived ingredients like sandalwood and argan oils doesn’t mean it’s always sustainable or healthy.
4 Natural Skin Care Ingredients to Avoid
Not all natural skin care ingredients are created equal. Although they might be safer for your skin, several ingredients are not safe for the planet. In fact, there are raw components driving the extinction of the trees themselves and the plants and animals that rely on them.
Here are four natural skin care ingredients to avoid.
1. Shea
Shea is a vitamin C and A-rich ingredient found in moisturizers, body creams and hair products, which help you achieve soft, hydrated skin. The trees grow from Uganda to Senegal — called the “shea belt” — typically in arid woodlands and savannahs.
According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, shea trees maintain a vulnerable conservation status on the IUCN Red List mainly due to extensive human activity and climate change pressures. These slow-growing trees are rarely farmed, as their juvenile period lasts 10-25 years — therefore, shea species are highly dependent on natural regeneration.
Shea trees are critical to Africa’s economy, particularly for women who earn a 44% profit margin, or $162 per metric ton of kernel. This isn’t without ethical issues, though. Because women and kids are the primary harvesters, collecting and extracting shea nuts and butter poses significant social challenges and child labor troubles.
2. Palm Oil
Palm oil is affordable, versatile, and used in various industries and goods like body oils and creams, makeup, and hair products. Grown in Southeast Asia, the demand for this commodity is at an all-time high. The global market is expected to have a 5.87% compound annual growth rate from 2024 to 2032 — $69.31 billion to $109.39 billion.
Unfortunately, palm oil plantations have overtaken natural forests, negatively impacting local species. In Malaysia, deforestation from palm oil cultivation has affected critically endangered orangutans. Although over 230,000 orangutans existed a century ago, populations have dwindled. Today, there are only about 104,700 Bornean orangutans and 7,500 Sumatran orangutans left.
Irrigation requirements also make palm oil unsustainable for skin care products. Unlike many fruit trees — which need about 1-2 inches of water to reach the roots — palm oil trees need much more. According to one study, irrigated palms grow 56% higher than non-irrigated palms in Malaysia. However, many areas have limited water supplies, increasing water conservation risks.
3. Sandalwood
Sandalwood is a common ingredient in natural skin care products. Because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, it often aids the treatment of acne, psoriasis, eczema and skin brightening. Due to its woody scent, you’ll usually find it in toners, soaps, body scrubs and aromatherapy.
Overharvesting sandalwood trees has led to deforestation, soil erosion, and habitat and biodiversity loss. The tree’s slow growth has made it especially difficult for the species to regenerate at the same rate as harvesting. It can take 25 years to produce enough heartwood for sandalwood oil extraction.
Hawaii has listed sandalwood as endangered among a long list of state plants. Meanwhile, South Australia classifies it as vulnerable after 175 years of commercial harvesting and overexploitation.
4. Argan
Morocco is home to argan trees, which produce argan oil. Due to its highly moisturizing effects, the oil has become a popular component of clean skin care products. However, the increasing demand has led to sustainability concerns for the tree population and deforestation, especially as it takes 50 years to grow fruit for harvesting. Today, Morocco’s argan trees are considered endemic.
Argan trees can withstand harsh arid and semiarid conditions and are critical to stabilizing soil, sustainable development — including shelter, food and wood — and mitigating climate change. In fact, argan forests can greatly improve soil fertility, sequester carbon dioxide, and improve adequate shade and shelter for other flora to thrive. This makes the potential for extinction dire.
Alternatives to Unsustainable Natural Skin Care Ingredients
It’s not enough to look for skin care products with more natural, safe ingredients. You must also consider their sustainability. Commit to brands prioritizing sustainable harvesting and extraction of natural resources for their products — this may require some research.
Don’t fret if shea butter is your go-to moisturizer. Cocoa butter is derived from cocoa beans and is a much more sustainable alternative for smooth, hydrated skin when sourced responsibly. Cedarwood is also a great alternative to sandalwood, as it has a similar woody aroma. It comes from cedar trees, which can grow several feet annually.
Jojoba and marula oils are also more sustainable than argan and palm oils. Both are highly nourishing for your skin, with marula oil having a high absorption rate. Jojoba plants, in particular, require little to no maintenance, needing only 3 inches of irrigation annually.
Achieve Healthier Skin With Sustainable Ingredients
Create a more sustainable skin care routine using products with the most environmentally friendly components. For every item promoting deforestation and driving extinction, there are several other natural and effective ingredients to choose from.
